Abstract :
Stator construction
This
section tells how to make a stator, using the jigs and moulds. It is a good
idea to wind a coil before making the stator moulds, so that the mould can be
checked for correct fit.
Winding the coils
•
Mount the reel of winding wire on an axle behind you, in line with the coil
former. The wire should form an 'S' bend as it winds onto the coil .
Bend
the tail of the wire 90 degrees, at a point 100mm from the end. Do not handle
the bend any other part of the wire; leave it straight. Bent wire does not make
a compact coil.
•
Place this bend in the notch, so that the tail hangs out.
•
Twist the tail loosely around one of the butterfly bolts.
•
Grip the wire between the reel and the winder in a piece of rag to keep it
tight.
•
Wind the handle of the crankshaft.
The
first turn lies against the cheek piece on the side where the tail comes out.
The
other
turns lie against each other neatly, without crossing over. Build the coil up
in
even
layers. Count the number of turns carefully. Normally there will be 100 turns.
•
When the coil is complete, pass a piece of sticky tape under the coil on both
sides
and
bind it tightly. Do not cut off the winding wire until this is done, or the coil
will
spring out, and loosen. Cut the tail of wire 100mm away from the coil.
•
Remove the coil from the former, and wind five more coils in exactly the same
way.
•
Place the coils on a table (so that they are all exactly the same way up
(diagram
27) Check
that the starting tail is on the upper surface, and not hidden under the
coil.
•
Number the coils 1-6, writing on the masking tape.
Rotor construction
The
magnet rotor is also a casting. There is also a procedure later for assembling
the parts. First collect together the magnet plates, magnet blocks, stainless
wire rope, etc. as described next. Magnet plates Each magnet rotor is built on
a steel disk, 6mm thick. See diagram 32. Do not use aluminium or stainless
steel for this disk! The disks have to be made of magnetic material. The disk
has holes to mount it to the hub - in this manual the hub has four holes, each
10mm diameter, on a circle at 4 inches (102mm) PCD. If a different hub is chosen,
then all the jigs and moulds must match this hub. At the centre of the disk is
a 65mm diameter hole. There should also be four holes drilled and tapped
(threaded) for M10 rod between the magnet positions, at 220mm PCD. Screw four
pieces of M10 rod, 20mm long, into these holes. These will bond to the resin
and help to secure the casting onto the disk. 305mm
Before
starting, check that everything is ready:
• the
moulds are prepared with polish or release agent,
• the
magnets and the magnet disks are clean and bright (no grease),
• 16
strips of CSM are ready to fit between the magnets
• the
stainless steel wire is cut to length and taped
• the magnet positioning jig is ready
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